![]() His cooking took a casual turn with Rahi, his first restaurant as an owner with his business partner, the restaurateur Roni Mazumdar, but the edible flowers tweezed into position suggested he still hadn’t broken free of the hotels. Pandya learned his craft at a fine-dining hotel restaurant in Mumbai, where he was born, and spent several years as the executive chef of Junoon, in Manhattan, practicing a cosmopolitan style. You just have to get past a few layers of joyful abandon to find it. ![]() It’s not that the cooking at Dhamaka lacks nuance. The sauces yowl with ginger, turmeric, cardamom and other intensifiers. Pandya has lifted ideas from all over India for the menu, and for the most part he stayed away from the restrained dishes that tend to get described as soothing, delicate or quiet. ![]() What you won’t get at Dhamaka, though, is a dull meal.
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